Sandhamn and Värmdö by boat: routes and harbours
Värmdö is the part of the Stockholm archipelago that starts at the city limits and ends at the open sea. From Nacka and Saltsjöbaden you run through narrow sounds such as Baggensstäket, Kolström and Strömma kanal, and an hour or two later you are in Sandhamn, with the KSSS guest harbour, Lökholmen and a clear horizon. From there you also reach Möja, Gällnö, Runmarö and Nämdö, with natural harbours, village shops and Nämdöskärgården National Park, created in 2025. This guide covers five routes, where to moor and which rules apply.
Where can you rent a boat near Sandhamn and Värmdö?
Most boats in the area are kept on the mainland side, and that is where you start. Private owners rent out their own boats on Ship O'Hoi, for example if you want to rent a boat in Saltsjöbaden, rent a boat in Nacka, boats in Gustavsberg or rent a boat on Bullandö, the closest of them to Sandhamn. Each owner states what experience or certificate they require, and some owners can come along as skipper if you would rather enjoy the trip than navigate.
5 boat trips in Sandhamn and Värmdö
The distances below are approximate and estimated from the chart. Always use a nautical chart or a chart app, and allow time for the speed limits in the sounds. Two Swedish words you will see everywhere: a gästhamn is a guest harbour with berths for visiting boats, and a naturhamn is a natural harbour, a sheltered bay where you anchor or moor to the rocks.
1. Nacka to Saltsjöbaden through Skurusundet and Baggensstäket
Approx. 6 nm from Skurusundet to Hotellviken in Saltsjöbaden, about an hour because almost the whole stretch has a speed limit. This is the inner route east out of Stockholm: first Skurusundet under the bridge, then Lännerstasundet and finally Baggensstäket, a narrow, winding sound between the mainland and Värmdö lined with villas and boathouses. After the sound, Baggensfjärden opens up. In Hotellviken the KSSS guest harbour has around 35 guest berths on Y-booms or buoys, with showers and laundry, and next door are the Saltsjöbaden open-air sea bath and the restaurant Holmen Kök och Bar.
Tip: In Skurusundet the limit is 5 knots past the boatyards and 8 knots in the rest of the sound, then 8 knots in Lännerstasundet and 5 knots all through Baggensstäket. Keep your speed down and keep to starboard, as it gets tight when you meet other boats.
2. Saltsjöbaden or Gustavsberg to Sandhamn via Strömma kanal
Approx. 24 nm from Saltsjöbaden and about the same from Gustavsberg, 2–3 hours by motorboat. From Baggensfjärden the route runs east through Kolström between Ingarö and Värmdö, on through Lagnöström and Strömma kanal, past Stavsnäs and across Kanholmsfjärden to Sandhamn. From Gustavsberg you first head out through Farstasundet into Baggensfjärden. In Sandhamn the KSSS guest harbour below the Seglarhotellet has around 150 guest berths, 34 of which can be booked in advance. You moor with mooring lines, and anchoring is forbidden in the harbour.
Tip: If the guest harbour is full, try Lökholmen, with around 200 berths. In high season a tender runs between Lökholmen and Sandhamn every hour from 09:00 to 23:00.
3. Bullandö to Runmarö and Sandhamn
Approx. 11 nm from Bullandö to Sandhamn, about an hour, and Runmarö is only a couple of nautical miles from Bullandö on the way out. This is the shortest way to the outer archipelago, because Bullandö sits on the south-eastern tip of the Värmdö mainland. Runmarö lies on the way and makes a good first stop: Runmarö Båtvarv at Solberga has guest berths for day visits and overnight stays. Then carry on east to Sandhamn for a swim off the rocks and a walk around the island.
Tip: The limit is 5 knots in Klubbviken at Bullandö and 5 knots in the whole sound at Sandhamn, between Telegrafholmen and Kroksö. West of Sandhamnshålet the limit is 8 knots.
4. Gällnö and Möja
Approx. 14 nm from Bullandö to Långvik on Möja, 1–1.5 hours. Head north to Gällnö, a nature reserve with open farmland, bathing coves and Gällnö handelsbod, a shop with a café and bar. The shop has two small jetties where you can moor while you shop or eat. For the night, they recommend the natural harbour in Torsviken, just under a kilometre north of the hostel. Then carry on east to Möja. The island has guest harbours in Långvik, Ramsmora, Löka and Kyrkviken, and in the village of Berg there is a restaurant, a café and a food shop open all year. There is a fuel station at Möjaström.
Tip: Vamböströmmen between Gällnö and Karklö has a 5-knot limit, Möjaströmmen 7 knots and Lökasundet 5 and 8 knots. Motorboats are banned in Norrviken on Gällnö.
5. Saltsjöbaden to Björnö and Nämdö
Approx. 9 nm from Saltsjöbaden to Björnö on Ingarö and approx. 14 nm to Nämdö, 1–1.5 hours. The route runs south through Fällströmmen and out into Ingaröfjärden. Björnö nature reserve on the south-east of Ingarö has sheltered natural harbour bays, rocks and Torpesand, a sandy beach with a snorkel trail. Nämdö is one of the larger islands in the archipelago and also a nature reserve, with natural harbours, rock bathing and guest jetties. At Solvik there is a food shop, a café and services. East of Nämdö lies Nämdöskärgården National Park, with Bullerö as its entrance, where you find a sauna, a warming hut and natural harbours.
Tip: Torpe-Infjärden has a 5-knot limit, and motorboats are banned in Slängen. Inside the national park the limit is 5 knots within 100 metres of land.
| Route | Distance | Time | Highlight | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nacka – Saltsjöbaden via Baggensstäket | approx. 6 nm | approx. 1 h | Narrow sounds and villas | First trip, evening run |
| Saltsjöbaden/Gustavsberg – Sandhamn | approx. 24 nm | 2–3 h | Strömma kanal, Sandhamn | Full day or overnight |
| Bullandö – Runmarö – Sandhamn | approx. 11 nm | approx. 1 h | Short run to the outer archipelago | Day trip |
| Bullandö – Gällnö – Möja | approx. 14 nm | 1–1.5 h | Villages, shop, natural harbour | Day trip or weekend |
| Saltsjöbaden – Björnö – Nämdö | approx. 14 nm | 1–1.5 h | Nature reserves, national park | Swimming and nature |
Rules and safety in Sandhamn and Värmdö
- Speed limits: The Stockholm County Administrative Board (Länsstyrelsen) has set many local speed limits in the sounds, for example 5 knots in Baggensstäket and past the boatyards in Skurusundet, 7 knots in Farstasundet, 5 knots in Strömma kanal, 5 knots in Stavsnäs summer harbour and 5 knots at Sandhamn. The limits are signposted and listed in Länsstyrelsen's sea traffic regulations (in Swedish). Always follow the signs on site.
- Fairways and traffic: The Stockholm–Sandhamn fairway is one of the main routes for large ships into Stockholm, and archipelago ferries call at jetties on Möja, Gällnö and Nämdö among others. Give way in good time, stay out of the fairway where you can and expect wash.
- National park: In Nämdöskärgården National Park you may anchor or moor in the same place for at most two days, the limit is 5 knots within 100 metres of land, and you may not enter bird protection areas during their closed periods. Dogs are banned on Tärnskär from 1 April to 31 July. More from Länsstyrelsen.
- Bird protection and reserves: In Björnö nature reserve you may not land on the Kalvholmsgrunden bird skerries or anchor by them from 1 April to 15 July, and you must stay at least 50 metres from the sandy beaches. In the Gällnö and Björnö reserves you may not keep your boat at the same shore for more than two days. Other bird protection areas and their dates are shown in the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency's map service Skyddad natur.
- Right of public access (allemansrätten): You may go ashore, swim, anchor and moor temporarily at a shore that is not part of someone's garden or private plot. You may borrow a jetty temporarily, but leave if the owner wants to use it (Naturvårdsverket).
- Toilet waste: Since 1 April 2015 it has been forbidden to discharge toilet waste from leisure boats (Transportstyrelsen).
- Licence: In Sweden no licence is needed for a leisure boat under 12 metres long or under 4 metres wide, whatever the engine. A boat that is at least 12 metres long and at least 4 metres wide requires a coastal skipper certificate (kustskepparintyg) or higher. This applies to visitors too. More in our guide to the boat licence in Sweden.
- Alcohol: The limit is 0.2 per mille for boats that can do at least 15 knots or are at least 10 metres long.
Best time for a boat trip in Sandhamn and Värmdö
June to August is high season. The KSSS guest harbour in Sandhamn is open from the last weekend in April to the last weekend in October, and Gällnö handelsbod is open from early May to late September. The KSSS harbour in Saltsjöbaden is staffed from 1 June to 30 August. In July the popular harbours are busy, and on Möja you cannot book a guest berth in advance, so arrive early in the day. May, June and late August bring quieter harbours.
FAQ
How long does it take to get to Sandhamn by boat?
From Bullandö about an hour, as it is only approx. 11 nm. From Saltsjöbaden or Gustavsberg it is approx. 24 nm, and with all the speed-limited sounds it takes 2–3 hours.
Can you anchor in Sandhamn harbour?
No, anchoring is forbidden in the guest harbour. You moor with mooring lines instead. For a quieter night, take a berth on Lökholmen and ride the tender into Sandhamn.
Can I refuel on the way?
Yes, for example at Bullandö Marina and at Möjaström on Möja. Fill up before Sandhamn if you are heading further out.
Where is a good natural harbour nearby?
Torsviken on Gällnö, the natural harbours around Björnö on Ingarö and the bays of the Möja archipelago east of Möja are all good options. Remember the two-day limit in the reserves and keep clear of bird skerries.
Do I need a boat licence?
No, not for a normal rental boat under 12 metres. The owner may still require experience or a certificate, so read the listing.
For a shorter overview of Sandhamn, Möja and the other islands, read the most beautiful islands in the Stockholm archipelago. To the south, continue with Dalarö and the southern archipelago by boat; to the north, with Vaxholm and the northern archipelago by boat.
