Vaxholm and the northern Stockholm archipelago by boat
Vaxholm is the gateway to the northern and middle Stockholm archipelago. From the water you see the wooden houses along Västerhamnen, the Kastellet fortress in the middle of the strait and steady ferry traffic. Within an hour you reach Grinda and Svartsö, in a day Finnhamn and Husarö, and the Åkers kanal canal in Åkersberga takes you from Garnsviken out to Trälhavet. This guide covers five routes, where to moor and which speed limits and protection rules apply.
Where can you rent a boat near Vaxholm?
Most boats are kept on the mainland side, a short run from Vaxholm. Private owners rent out their boats on Ship O'Hoi, for example if you want to rent a boat in Åkersberga with Trälhavet around the corner, find boats in Täby on Stora Värtan or rent a boat on Lidingö. Each owner sets their own requirements for experience or certificates, and some owners can come along as skipper if you would rather enjoy the view than navigate.
5 boat trips around Vaxholm and the northern archipelago
Distances are approximate and estimated from the chart, in nautical miles (nm). Always use a paper chart or a chart app, and allow time for the speed-restricted straits. Two Swedish words you will see on signs and maps: gästhamn means guest harbour (a marina with visitor berths), and naturhamn means natural harbour (a sheltered cove where you anchor or moor to the rocks).
1. Vaxholm, Kastellet and Resarö
Approx. 4 nm around Vaxön and Resarö starting in Vaxholm, about an hour at an easy pace. You cruise along Västerhamnen, pass close by Kastellet and continue north through Kodjupet towards Resarö, where narrow sounds are lined with villas. Vaxholm guest harbour in Västerhamnen has day and overnight berths, showers, toilets and a pump-out station. Kastellet has about 15 guest berths that cannot be booked in advance, first come, first served. The fortress museum is open in summer.
Tip: The limit is 5 knots between Vaxön and Kastellet and inside the guest harbour, 8 knots in the Vaxholm straits (Vaxholmssunden) and in Kodjupet, and 5 knots in the sounds at Engarn on Resarö. Anchoring is prohibited in the guest harbour.
2. Vaxholm to Grinda and Svartsö
Approx. 8 nm from Vaxholm to Grinda and another 4–5 nm to Svartsö, 1–1.5 hours in total. Grinda is a nature reserve with child-friendly sandy beaches and the sun-warmed rocks at Källviken. The guest harbour is in Hemviken and the natural harbour in Hästholmssundet on the south side. The Framfickan bar sits right by the guest harbour, and Grinda Wärdshus, the old inn, is in the middle of the island. On Svartsö there is a village shop at Alsvik's jetty, and Svartsö Krog restaurant has its own jetty.
Tip: Reserve rules say you may not keep your boat moored at the same shore for more than two days in a row. On Svartsö the limit is 5 knots in Skolviken and Träsköströmmen.
3. Åkersberga through Åkers kanal to Trälhavet and Ljusterö
From the southern mouth of the canal in Åkersberga it is approx. 8 nm across Trälhavet to southern Ljusterö, about an hour. Åkers kanal links Garnsviken with Trälhavet and opened to traffic in 1825. It is lined with Viking Age burial grounds and protected as a site of national cultural interest. The lock, run through Tuna hamn, is usually open from mid-May to mid-October at set times in the morning and evening, and you book a passage by phone one hour ahead. Check the current dates and times on Tuna hamn's website before you go. There are 5–6 guest berths at the industrial bridge on Sågvägen for up to 24 hours, and a guest jetty with about 8 berths at Österskär's seaside bath.
Tip: The limit is 5 knots throughout Åkers kanal and on through Prästfjärden, and 7 knots in Tunaviken. Off southern Ljusterö it is 7 knots in Staveström and 8 knots between Ljusterö and Kårnäsborgen.
4. Finnhamn and Husarö
Approx. 17 nm from Vaxholm to Finnhamn, 1.5–2 hours, then approx. 2 nm on to Husarö. Finnhamn sits on the edge of the outer archipelago and has three harbours: Paradisviken, Vandrarhemsviken and Söder Långholm. The first two have guest harbour services with electricity and water, and Paradisviken is one of the best-loved anchorages in the archipelago. The island has a restaurant, café and farm shop. Husarö has natural harbours around the island, the bathing spots Sandholmen, Badviken, Bockholmen and Kallviken, and the house of the children's author Elsa Beskow.
Tip: In Busströmmen at Finnhamn the limit is 8 knots from 1 June to 31 August. On the bay between Lilla Lövskär and Bockholmen at Husarö it is 8 knots from 1 May to 30 September.
5. Täby or Lidingö across Stora Värtan
Approx. 9 nm from Näsbyviken in Täby to Vaxholm, just over an hour, and shorter from northern Lidingö. Stora Värtan is a sheltered bay with villa-lined shores, islets and the Öarna i Stora Värtan nature reserve. From here you head out towards Vaxholm and on to route 1 or 2. It suits an evening trip or a first day on a rented boat.
Tip: Råholmen in Stora Värtan is a bird protection area with no access from 1 April to 31 July. The limit is 5 knots in Viggbyholm marina, in Näsbyviken and in Hällsund towards Kyrkfjärden. On Lidingö it is 5 knots in Södergarnsviken and in the sound at Sticklinge.
| Route | Distance | Time | Highlight | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vaxholm – Kastellet – Resarö | approx. 4 nm | approx. 1 h | Fortress and wooden houses | First trip, evening |
| Vaxholm – Grinda – Svartsö | approx. 12–13 nm | 1–1.5 h | Beaches, inn, restaurant with jetty | Family day trip |
| Åkers kanal – Trälhavet – Ljusterö | approx. 8 nm plus the canal | 1–2 h | Lock and Viking graves | Half day |
| Vaxholm – Finnhamn – Husarö | approx. 19 nm | 2–2.5 h | Paradisviken, natural harbours | Full day or weekend |
| Täby/Lidingö – Stora Värtan – Vaxholm | approx. 9 nm | approx. 1 h | Sheltered bay | Beginners, evening |
Rules and safety around Vaxholm
- Speed limits: The Stockholm County Administrative Board (Länsstyrelsen) sets local limits in the straits, including 8 knots in the Vaxholm straits, 5 knots between Vaxön and Kastellet, 12 knots on Norra Vaxholmsfjärden, 8 knots in Kodjupet, Oxdjupet and Ramsösundet, and 12 knots for leisure boats in Tenöviken and Tenösundet from 15 May to 15 September. All limits are listed in Länsstyrelsen's sea traffic regulations (in Swedish). Always follow the signs on site.
- Ferries and the shipping lane: Vaxholm is the hub of archipelago traffic, and Waxholmsbolaget ferries call at Kastellet, Grinda and Finnhamn. Car ferries run at Vaxholm and between Östanå and Ljusterö. The main shipping lane runs through Oxdjupet and north across Trälhavet, and large ferries to Finland may do up to 15–16 knots there. Give way early and expect wash.
- Bird areas and reserves: Råholmen in Stora Värtan is closed to visitors from 1 April to 31 July. On Grinda and Finnhamn you may not moor at the same shore for more than two days, and fires are only allowed at designated places. Other bird protection areas and their dates are shown in the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency's map service Skyddad natur, and they are often marked with yellow or red-and-yellow signs.
- Bathing areas: At Eriksöbadet on Vaxön and Österskär's seaside bath, motorboats are banned inside the bathing area from 1 June to 30 September.
- Right of public access (allemansrätten): You may go ashore, swim, anchor and moor temporarily at a shore that is not part of someone's garden. You can borrow a jetty for a short time, but leave if the owner wants to use it (Naturvårdsverket).
- Toilet waste: Since 1 April 2015 it is forbidden to discharge toilet waste from leisure boats in Sweden (Transportstyrelsen). Vaxholm guest harbour has a pump-out station.
- Licence: In Sweden no boating licence is needed for a leisure boat under 12 metres long or under 4 metres wide, whatever the engine. A boat that is at least 12 metres long and at least 4 metres wide requires a coastal skipper certificate (kustskepparintyg) or higher. This applies to visitors too. More in our guide boat licence in Sweden.
- Alcohol: The legal limit is 0.2 per mille blood alcohol for boats that can do at least 15 knots or are at least 10 metres long.
Best time for a boat trip around Vaxholm
June to mid-August is high season. Vaxholm guest harbour counts high season from 18 June to 15 August and runs its season from late April to early October. The lock in Åkers kanal is usually open from mid-May to mid-October, and Grinda Wärdshus from April to December. May, early June and late August bring quieter harbours and easier berths, but remember that bird protection rules apply through spring and early summer.
FAQ
How long does it take by boat from Vaxholm to Grinda?
It is approx. 8 nm, and with the speed limits around Vaxholm it takes 40–60 minutes in an ordinary motorboat.
Can I moor at Kastellet?
Yes, Kastellet has about 15 guest berths. They cannot be booked, but according to Kastellet it is very unusual for all of them to be taken.
Can I take a rented boat through Åkers kanal?
Yes, if the boat fits the lock and the canal. The lock is usually open from mid-May to mid-October at set times, and you book a passage an hour ahead. Ask the owner about the boat's height and draught.
Where can I anchor overnight?
Hästholmssundet on Grinda, Paradisviken and Söder Långholm on Finnhamn and the natural harbours around Husarö are popular. In the reserves you may stay at most two days at the same shore.
Do I need a boating licence?
No, not for an ordinary rental boat under 12 metres. The owner may still ask for experience or a certificate, so read the listing.
For a shorter overview of Vaxholm, Grinda and the other islands, read the most beautiful islands in the Stockholm archipelago. To the south the guide Sandhamn and Värmdö by boat continues, and closer in Stockholm city by boat.
