Gryt archipelago by boat: Harstena, Häradskär, Sankt Anna
The Gryt and Sankt Anna archipelagos are the Östergötland coast at its most fragmented: thousands of islands and bare skerries of gneiss and granite, red cottages around small coves, and an outer archipelago where sea eagles and seals are an everyday sight. By boat you can take sheltered trips from Fyrudden, run out to Häradskär lighthouse or the island village of Harstena, or head up the narrow Valdemarsviken inlet.
Where can you rent a boat near Gryt?
Fyrudden is the natural starting point, and our page for boat rental in Gryt lists boats that private owners rent out in the area. For fresh water inland, see renting a boat in Gusum, close to lake Yxningen. Further north, across the Bråviken bay, you can rent a boat in Oxelösund to explore the Södermanland coast. Each owner states in the listing what experience or certificate they require, and some owners can come along as skipper.
6 boat trips in the Gryt and Sankt Anna archipelagos
Distances are approximate, estimated from the chart in nautical miles (NM). Always plan with a chart or chart app: the archipelago is shallow and rocky, and much of it was sounded by lead line in the 1800s.
Fyrudden to Harstena
Harstena lies approx. 6 NM from Fyrudden harbour, in the northern Gryt archipelago, about 30–45 minutes at a relaxed speed. The island is known for its well-preserved village of red cottages around Båtsviken cove and its seal-hunting past. The Harstena gästhamn (guest harbour, a harbour with berths for visiting boats) has just under 25 visitor berths, a depth of approx. 1.5–3 metres and no advance booking. Restaurang Loftet sits by the harbour, only 40 metres from the pier, and in summer the village bakery sells bread and cinnamon buns. Tip: arrive early in high season; the harbour is small and the ferry from Fyrudden also calls here.
Fyrudden to Häradskär lighthouse
Häradskär is the outermost outpost of the Gryt archipelago, approx. 5 NM southeast of Fyrudden, 30–40 minutes away. It is an old pilot station with a Heidenstam lighthouse about 30 metres tall, and the local lighthouse society offers guided visits to the top. The guest harbour is the old pilot harbour on the west side: visitor berths are in its southern part, along a pier of approx. 30 metres and a concrete quay of approx. 8 metres, or you anchor. The harbour is open all year, but in winter and on some days there is no harbour master on site. Tip: Häradskär is exposed to the open sea, so pick a day with light winds.
Fyrudden to Gryts varv and the inner fairway
For windy days: Gryts varv marina lies approx. 2.4 NM southwest of Fyrudden on the south side of Hummelviksfjärden, a stone's throw from the inner fairway, and is described as a well-sheltered harbour. Allow 15–20 minutes. You can extend it into a loop of approx. 8–10 NM among the islands around Fångö, where parts of the Gryt nature reserve lie and you may moor or camp for one night at most. Tip: stay in the marked fairway as long as you can.
Fyrudden to Valdemarsvik along Valdemarsviken
Valdemarsviken is a narrow, fjord-like inlet leading to the small town of Valdemarsvik. From Fyrudden it is approx. 10 NM to the guest harbour at the head of the inlet, roughly 1–1.5 hours at a relaxed pace. The water is sheltered and the wooded shores are a contrast to the bare outer skerries. Valdemarsvik harbour has 76 guest berths along the harbour promenade in the town centre, and the fee includes electricity, the service building, fresh water and waste disposal. It is open all year. Tip: restaurants and shops are close by, so stock up here.
Tyrislöt to Harstena (Sankt Anna archipelago)
From Tyrislöt in the Sankt Anna archipelago it is approx. 6–7 NM out to Harstena, 45 minutes to an hour at a relaxed speed. Tyrislöt makes a good base for Sankt Anna: the guest harbour, run by Tyrislöt camping, has showers, toilets, a laundry and a pump-out, plus a village shop and a café-pub. The site is usually open from late April to late September – check the current dates on its website. Tip: the Skärgårdslinjen passenger boats run a red line Arkösund–Tyrislöt–Harstena and a green line Fyrudden–Harstena daily from mid-June to late August, handy if part of your group prefers the ferry.
Arkösund to the Sankt Anna nature reserve
Arkösund, in Norrköping municipality, is the northern gateway to the archipelago. Its harbour has space for up to 150 boats, a fuel pier during high season, and restaurants, a hotel and a grocery store right by the harbour. From here you reach the Sankt Anna nature reserve, 7,367 hectares of skerries and islets in the outer archipelago southeast of Aspöja, accessible only by boat or kayak. A trip out among the skerries and back is approx. 10–15 NM and takes half a day. Here you will mostly use a naturhamn (natural harbour: a sheltered cove where you anchor or moor to the rocks). Tip: in the reserve you may stay at most two days in a row in the same place, and engines and generators must not be left idling. If you want to continue north, Oxelösund is approx. 15 NM away across Bråviken.
South of Gryt, the Tjust archipelago continues the coast.
| Route | Distance | Time | Highlight | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fyrudden – Harstena | approx. 6 NM | 30–45 min | Island village, bakery, Loftet | Day trip, families |
| Fyrudden – Häradskär | approx. 5 NM | 30–40 min | Lighthouse and pilot station | Calm days, outer archipelago |
| Fyrudden – Gryts varv and Fångö | approx. 2.4 NM, loop approx. 8–10 NM | 15 min – 2 h | Sheltered coves | Windy days, beginners |
| Fyrudden – Valdemarsvik | approx. 10 NM | 1–1.5 h | Fjord-like inlet, town harbour | Supplies, half day |
| Tyrislöt – Harstena | approx. 6–7 NM | 45–60 min | Sankt Anna and Gryt in one trip | Day trip |
| Arkösund – Sankt Anna nature reserve | approx. 10–15 NM return | half day | Outer skerries, sea eagles, seals | Experienced, settled weather |
Rules and safety in the Gryt and Sankt Anna archipelagos
- Bird protection: the Östergötland archipelago has more than 70 bird protection areas. According to the County Administrative Board of Östergötland, some areas are closed from 1 April to 31 July or from 1 February to 15 August, and you may not come closer to land than 100 metres. In other areas, landing is banned from 1 April to 15 July. The islands carry yellow and red signs showing the dates, and exact boundaries are in the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency's Skyddad natur map.
- Seal protection: the Sandsänkan seal protection area in the outer archipelago is closed all year.
- Gryt nature reserve: 435 hectares in seven parts. From 1 April to 31 July you may not enter certain parts of the reserve because of bird protection. Dogs must be on a lead, and on Innerö and in the area by Fångö you may not camp or moor for more than one night. Fires are banned on Ytterö and Innerö. See the Gryt nature reserve page.
- Sankt Anna nature reserve: mooring and camping for at most two days in a row in one place, fires only at marked sites, no idling engines or generators, and no sewage discharge. Jet skis are allowed only in the marked fairway plus 300 metres on each side. Parts of the reserve are a bird protection area from 1 April to 31 July and a seal protection area from 1 February to 15 August. Read more about the Sankt Anna nature reserve.
- Speed: local speed limits are set by the County Administrative Board. Follow the signs, and never go faster than conditions allow.
- Shallow water: large parts of Swedish archipelago charts are still based on 19th-century lead-line soundings, according to the Swedish Maritime Administration. Stay in the fairways.
- Right of public access (allemansrätten): you may anchor and moor temporarily by a shore that is not part of someone's garden and not protected for birdlife, and stay a night or two. Leave a borrowed jetty if the owner wants to use it (Swedish EPA).
- Toilet waste: discharging toilet waste from leisure boats has been banned in Sweden since 2015. Use the harbour pump-outs, for example in Valdemarsvik or Tyrislöt.
- Licence: no licence is needed in Sweden for a leisure boat under 12 metres long or under 4 metres wide, whatever the engine. A boat of 12 metres or more in length and 4 metres or more in width needs a coastal skipper certificate (kustskepparintyg) or higher. This applies to visitors too. Read more in boat licence rules in Sweden.
- Alcohol: the limit is 0.2 per mille blood alcohol on boats that can do at least 15 knots or are at least 10 metres long.
Best time for a boat trip in the Gryt archipelago
High season runs from Midsummer to mid-August. Then Fyrudden's restaurant, pizzeria and ice-cream café open daily (weeks 24–32) and the M/S Ellen af Harstena sails daily from Fyrudden. Fyrudden guest harbour is open daily in weeks 13–39, and Häradskär and Valdemarsvik are open all year. Early summer is quieter but overlaps with the bird protection period. By September the ferries have stopped and island cafés close, but Fyrudden, Häradskär and Valdemarsvik still take visiting boats.
FAQ
Can I moor at Harstena without booking?
Yes. Harstena guest harbour takes no bookings, so its just under 25 berths are first come, first served.
Can I go ashore on any island?
Not all season. Many skerries are in bird protection areas, most often closed from 1 April to 31 July. Look for the yellow and red signs.
How shallow is the Gryt archipelago?
Harstena guest harbour has approx. 1.5–3 metres and the fishing quay at Fyrudden approx. 4 metres, but outside the fairways there are many rocks. Use a chart and go slowly.
Where can I refuel?
Fyrudden has a fuel station serving both boats and cars, and Arkösund harbour has a fuel pier that is staffed in high season.
Can I visit Häradskär lighthouse in autumn?
Yes, the Häradskär guest harbour is open all year, though without a harbour master in winter and on some days.
For another stretch of the Swedish coast, Karlskrona and the Blekinge archipelago is the natural next destination to the south, and for fresh water see our guide to Lake Vänern by boat.
