Greece or Croatia for sailing? Winds, seasons, areas

The short answer: Croatia gives you an island-studded coast where legs are usually short and the summer wind follows a daily sea-breeze rhythm, but the bora (a gusty north-easterly) and the jugo (a south-easterly) can blow in, and both get more frequent outside high summer. Greece gives you more open water. In the Aegean the meltemi blows hard from about mid-May to mid-September, peaking in July and August, while the Ionian lies outside its main area and is the gentler choice.

Both countries are superb under sail, so the better choice depends on your month, your experience and how much open water you want. You can compare charter yachts on our Greece and Croatia pages. Weeks usually run Saturday to Saturday, bareboat or with a hired skipper.

The winds

The meltemi (Greece, Aegean)

The Hellenic National Meteorological Service (HNMS) describes the summer northerlies, the etesians, as blowing mainly in the Aegean during the warm season (HNMS: the climate of Greece). The EU's Copernicus programme describes them as strong, dry north winds that blow periodically from mid-May to mid-September (EU Space: Aegean etesian winds). A peer-reviewed climatology in Weather and Climate Dynamics adds the numbers that matter to a skipper: peak intensity and persistence in July and August, a near-northerly direction in the central Aegean that turns north-westerly further south, and wind speeds that often exceed 15 m/s (about 30 knots) (WCD, 2022).

What that means on board:

• In the Cyclades and the open central Aegean, a July or August week can bring several days of strong wind and, as general guidance, short, steep seas. Plan the loop so that the long passages are downwind or on a reach, and keep a spare day.
• The meltemi is a dry wind and often blows under a clear summer sky, so a blue sky is no guide to the wind. Check the HNMS marine forecast every morning.
• In the Ionian Sea, west of the Greek mainland, you are outside the main meltemi area. As general guidance (not an official statistic), summer there typically brings lighter mornings and an afternoon north-westerly breeze.

Bora and jugo (Croatia, Adriatic)

The Croatian Meteorological and Hydrological Service (DHMZ) names the bura (bora) and the jugo as the winds of the Croatian coast that stand out for their strength (DHMZ: climate of Croatia):

• Bora blows from the north-east and is known for its gusts, high speed and duration. It is the prevalent and strongest wind below the Velebit mountains, weakens away from the shore and is also dominant along the coast of Istria. On the middle and southern Adriatic it is usually less intense and less frequent, though there are well-known bora spots such as the Makarska Riviera. DHMZ records the highest gust at 69 m/s (248 km/h) at the Maslenica Bridge.
• Jugo is a steady, strong south-easterly with a speed similar to the average bora. It is strongest in channels between the islands and the mainland, and more intense and frequent on the middle and southern Adriatic.
• Both are more frequent and stronger in the cold part of the year, but DHMZ notes that a summer bora can also cause problems for maritime traffic.

In summer DHMZ describes stable, clear weather on the Adriatic, with north-westerly winds on the open sea (gentle in the north, moderate in the middle Adriatic) and a regular daily breeze from sea to land by day and from land to sea at night. That daytime north-westerly is the maestral, which the University of Zagreb's geophysics department calls the typical summer Adriatic wind of stable weather: it starts gently in the morning, strengthens in the afternoon and eases in the evening.

Month by month

The table combines the official sources above. Crowding notes are general guidance, not statistics.

Sailing Greece in October

October is the tail of the Greek sailing season. HNMS divides the Greek year into a warm, rainless season from April to October and a cold, rainy season from mid-October to the end of March, and notes that autumn is long and warm and often lasts into mid-December in southern Greece. The meltemi is past its season, so the first half of October can be pleasant, especially in the Ionian and the southern islands. Expect more changeable weather and some rain as the month goes on, and more days in port. Check the base's season dates before you plan.

Sailing Croatia in September and October

September keeps much of the summer pattern, but as the cold part of the year approaches DHMZ expects bora and jugo to become more frequent and stronger. Plan sheltered overnight harbours, listen to the forecast before every leg, and choose a route in the middle or south Adriatic if a bora is forecast in the north.

Which area suits beginners, families and experienced sailors?

Beginners and families

• Ionian Sea, Greece: outside the main meltemi area, with islands close together. Our Ionian sailing week from Lefkada shows a typical first-timer loop, and you can see the yachts on our Lefkada page.
• Corfu and Paxos: a good alternative in the northern Ionian; see our Corfu and Paxos guide.
• Saronic Gulf: short legs close to Athens, a gentle introduction to the Aegean in early or late season; see our Saronic Gulf guide.
• Croatia in June or September: the maestral pattern suits learners (the University of Zagreb notes it is popular with beginner windsurfers), but you must be ready to stay in port when a bora or jugo is forecast.

Experienced sailors

• Cyclades: open-water passages right in the meltemi zone, fantastic sailing in May–June and September, demanding in July and August. See our Cyclades sailing week from Lavrion.
• Dodecanese: the south-east Aegean, still in the meltemi zone, with the wind turning more north-westerly in the south; see our Dodecanese guide from Kos.
• Sporades: the north-western Aegean; see our Sporades sailing week from Volos.
• Croatia's northern Adriatic: the coast below the Velebit is where the bora is strongest, so it rewards sailors who can read the forecast and pick sheltered harbours.

Practical differences

Licences

• Greece: for a bareboat charter the skipper needs a recognised licence, and the ICC is the safest choice; the charter company checks it. Licence-free boats are only small motorboats. See our boat licence guide for Greece.
• Croatia: every person operating a boat or yacht in Croatian waters needs a certificate, and the Croatian ministry publishes the list of recognised licences. An ICC valid for coastal waters is accepted, and if the yacht has a VHF radio, recognition is conditional on also holding a radio certificate. There is no licence-free motorboat category. See our boat licence guide for Croatia and the ICC guide.
• With a hired skipper nobody on board needs a licence in either country.

Crew lists

Both countries require a crew and passenger list before departure. In Greece it is filed electronically for every charter, and everyone aboard must be able to show an ID card or passport. In Croatia the list goes into the ministry's central database no later than departure and is kept on board. Bring passports or ID cards for everyone.

Taxes and fees

• Croatia, tourist tax: under the Tourist Tax Act, people staying overnight on a charter vessel pay tourist tax for each night, to the company they contracted with. Children up to 12 and professional crew are exempt (Tourist Tax Act, Narodne novine).
• Croatia, vignette: the ministry handles the vignette (bought through the eNautika service) as the arrival notification for yachts and boats, and it concerns foreign-flagged boats (Ministry of the Sea: nautics). If you charter locally, ask the company which fees the price includes.
• Greece, TEPAI: Greece charges a fee on private and professional pleasure boats over 7 m in Greek waters, whatever their flag. For a charter yacht, the owner or operator is liable to pay it. Ask whether your charter price includes it.

We have not covered other harbour or navigation fees; ask the charter company before you book.

FAQ

Is Greece or Croatia better for a first sailing holiday?

Both work. The Greek Ionian (Lefkada, Corfu) is outside the main meltemi area and has short legs. Croatia in June or September offers the regular maestral, but you have to watch the forecast for bora and jugo.

When is the meltemi strongest?

In July and August. The etesians blow periodically from about mid-May to mid-September, mostly in the Aegean, and often exceed 15 m/s (about 30 knots) at their peak.

Is October a good time to sail in Greece?

Often, early in the month. The warm season lasts into October and the meltemi season is over, but the rainy season starts from mid-October, so plan some flexibility.

Is the bora dangerous in summer?

It is more frequent and stronger in the cold part of the year, but a summer bora can still cause problems at sea. It can arrive with violent gusts, so follow the forecast and head for shelter early.

Can I sail a charter yacht in Croatia without a licence?

Not as the skipper. Croatia requires a recognised certificate for anyone operating a boat or yacht. Without one, book a yacht with a hired skipper.

Planning a Greek trip next? Our sailing in Greece overview covers every area, and our packing list for a yacht charter helps you pack for both countries.

Chosen Croatia? Our guide to sailing in Croatia compares the areas and bases.