Sailing the Dodecanese: a 7-day itinerary from Kos
Sailing the Dodecanese from Kos means short hops between very different islands: the sponge-diving port of Pothia on Kalymnos, the Italian-built harbour town of Lakki on Leros, the monastery and Cave of the Apocalypse on Patmos, quiet Lipsi and the volcano of Nisyros. A typical week covers about 130 nautical miles in legs of 15 to 30 miles, with a harbour town most evenings and the summer meltemi blowing from the north-west.
Where to charter a yacht for the Dodecanese?
Kos is the natural start: see yacht charter in Kos for sailing yachts and catamarans based in Kos marina, and boats in Leros if you would rather start further north, closer to Patmos and Lipsi. All Greek bases are listed on the Greece page. Charter weeks usually run Saturday to Saturday. For a bareboat charter the skipper needs a licence the charter company accepts, see our boat licence in Greece guide and the ICC certificate; otherwise hire a skipper or book a crewed yacht.
A 7-day sailing itinerary from Kos
The loop below goes north first and comes back south. In summer the meltemi blows from the north-west in the Dodecanese, so the upwind miles are done early in the week and the long runs home are off the wind. All distances are approximate estimates; plan every leg with up-to-date charts and a pilot book.
Day 1: Kos to Pothia, Kalymnos (approx. 16 nm)
Leave Kos marina, on the south-east side of Kos town about a mile from the old harbour (VHF 77), and head west past the small island of Pserimos, which lies between Kos and Kalymnos. It makes a good swim stop on the way. Then cross to Pothia, the capital and main port of Kalymnos, built like an amphitheatre around the bay. Overnight in Pothia harbour. Kalymnos' history is tied to sponge diving, and local sponge workshops show how sponges are fished and processed.
Tip: Pothia is a busy ferry and fishing port. Arrive in the afternoon, keep clear of the ferry quay and follow the port police's instructions on where yachts may berth.
Day 2: Pothia to Lakki, Leros (approx. 16 nm)
Sail north along the west coast of Kalymnos, past Telendos island with its ruined Byzantine fortress, and cross to Leros. Lakki has one of the largest natural harbours in the Mediterranean, which is why the Italians made Leros a naval base for the whole eastern Mediterranean. They built the town, then called Porto Lago, from scratch in rationalist style. Overnight in Lakki, whose deep, sheltered bay is also a charter base.
Tip: take a taxi up to the Castle of Panagia, which is open to visitors and looks down on Agia Marina, Platanos and Panteli. The War Museum in an Italian-built tunnel at Merikia tells the story of the Battle of Leros in November 1943.
Day 3: Lakki to Skala, Patmos (approx. 20 nm)
Round the northern tip of Leros and head north-west to Patmos. This is the leg most likely to be upwind in a meltemi, so leave early. Overnight in the harbour of Skala, the island's port. From Skala a road climbs to Chora and the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian, founded in the late 10th century near the cave where, according to tradition, John wrote the Book of Revelation. Chora, the monastery and the Cave of the Apocalypse have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.
Tip: Patmos is a pilgrimage island. Plan the monastery for the morning and check its opening hours locally before you go.
Day 4: Patmos to Arki and Lipsi (approx. 15 nm)
A short, easy day. Head east to Arki, a tiny island whose natural harbour gives yachts shelter in summer, for a swim and lunch, then drop south to Lipsi. Lipsi is a small chain of islands between Patmos and Leros, with a fishing harbour, turquoise bays and coves of white rock. Overnight in Lipsi harbour.
Tip: space in Arki is very limited and shallow in places. Treat it as a lunch stop and check your pilot book before going in.
Day 5: Lipsi to Pothia via the Vathy fjord (approx. 29 nm)
The longest leg, but mostly off the wind in a north-westerly. Run south along the east coast of Leros and on to the east coast of Kalymnos. Stop for lunch off Vathy, where a green valley of citrus trees ends in a narrow inlet that forms a fjord, with early-Christian basilica ruins inside Hellenistic walls. Continue round to Pothia for the night. Kalymnos is also a top climbing destination, and you will see the climbers' cliffs from the water.
Tip: the Vathy inlet is narrow. Enter under engine, with fenders ready, and look before you commit.
Day 6: Pothia to Mandraki, Nisyros (approx. 21 nm)
Cross south past the west end of Kos to Nisyros, an island formed by an active volcano. Overnight in Mandraki, the capital, which is also the island's harbour. Pali is a small harbour on the north coast; check a pilot book before relying on it. From Mandraki, take a bus or taxi up to the caldera and walk into the Stefanos crater, where fumaroles release gases at up to 100 °C.
Tip: in the crater stay on the marked paths and keep away from steaming vents. Wear proper shoes.
Day 7: Mandraki to Kos marina (approx. 19 nm)
A last sail north-east back to Kos, usually on a reach. Refuel as your charter contract requires and be back in the marina at the return time the charter company gives you.
Tip: if a strong meltemi is forecast, leave Nisyros early and take the forecast for the whole day into account.
| Leg | Distance | Overnight | Highlight |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kos to Pothia | approx. 16 nm | Pothia harbour, Kalymnos | Swim stop at Pserimos, sponge workshops |
| Pothia to Lakki | approx. 16 nm | Lakki, Leros | Italian rationalist town, War Museum, castle |
| Lakki to Skala | approx. 20 nm | Skala harbour, Patmos | Monastery of Saint John, Cave of the Apocalypse |
| Skala to Lipsi via Arki | approx. 15 nm | Lipsi harbour | Arki's natural harbour, white-rock coves |
| Lipsi to Pothia via Vathy | approx. 29 nm | Pothia harbour, Kalymnos | The Vathy fjord |
| Pothia to Mandraki | approx. 21 nm | Mandraki harbour, Nisyros | Stefanos volcanic crater |
| Mandraki to Kos | approx. 19 nm | Kos marina | Return to base |
Rules and safety in the Dodecanese
- Licence: in Greece only small motorboats can be driven without a licence (outboard up to 30 hp on a conventional hull, only 15 hp on a RIB, V-hull or multihull). For a bareboat charter the skipper needs a recognised licence, and the ICC is the safest choice; the charter company checks it. With a hired skipper nobody on board needs one. Details in our Greece licence guide.
- Swimmers: near beaches keep 200 m from swimmers and do no more than 5 knots within 200 m of the shore, as the port regulation described in our licence article requires.
- Protected areas: Leros is designated a Natura 2000 area. Anchor on sand, take all rubbish ashore and keep your distance from sensitive shorelines.
- Ferries: Kos, Pothia, Lakki and Skala are ferry ports. Keep clear of ferry berths and manoeuvring ferries, and listen on VHF when entering.
- Turkey: Bodrum is close to Kos, but it is not a day trip. Greece is in the Schengen area and Turkey is not (EU Schengen area), so crossing means exit and entry formalities (port police, customs and passport control) at official ports of entry on both sides, plus written permission from your charter company. Arrange it with the charter company before you book, or leave it out.
- Meltemi: the Etesian winds, known to sailors as the meltemi, are northerly summer winds that turn north-westerly in the southern Aegean, often exceed 15 m/s (about 30 knots) and are strongest and most persistent in July and August (Copernicus research article on the Etesians). Check the forecast every morning, reef early and plan the upwind legs for the calmer mornings.
Best time to sail the Dodecanese
The charter season runs roughly from April or May to October. May, June and September usually give lighter winds and quieter harbours, which suits a loop with upwind legs like this one. July and August are the meltemi months, with stronger winds and more crowded harbours in the main season. Around 15 August the Dormition of the Virgin Mary is celebrated in villages across the islands, with church services, processions and many visitors. For a relaxed first week, choose early summer or September.
FAQ
How far is it from Kos to Patmos by sailing yacht?
About 45 nautical miles on a direct route, which is why this itinerary breaks it up with a night in Kalymnos and one in Leros.
Can I sail from Kos to Bodrum during a charter week?
Only with advance planning. It is a crossing out of the EU and Schengen area, with official clearance on both sides, and it needs your charter company's permission.
Is the Dodecanese suitable for a first bareboat charter?
Yes, outside July and August. The distances are short and there is a harbour town most nights. In the meltemi months, less experienced crews should consider taking a skipper.
Can I visit the Nisyros volcano from the boat?
Yes. Leave the boat in Mandraki harbour and take a bus or taxi up to the caldera.
More sailing guides
Carry on south with our guide to sailing Rhodes and Symi, or compare with a Cyclades sailing week from Lavrion. Before you go, read what to bring on a yacht charter.
