Bodø and Saltstraumen by boat: routes, tides and islands
Few towns let you leave the harbour and reach open sea, small island communities and the world's strongest tidal current all in one day. That is what Bodø offers. To the north are the island of Landegode and the white beach at Mjelle, further north is Kjerringøy with its old trading post, to the west is the tiny island group of Givær, and to the southeast are the Saltfjord, Saltstraumen and Løding. In summer the midnight sun hangs over Landegode and the light lasts through the night.
Where can you rent a boat in Bodø?
Most boats in the area are in and around Bodø town. You will find them under boats for rent in Bodø. If you would rather start at the inner end of the Saltfjord, close to Saltstraumen, look at boat rental in Løding. The boats are rented out by private owners, and each owner sets their own requirements for licence and experience. Some owners can also come along as skipper. That is worth asking about if you want to see Saltstraumen or cross to Givær, as a visitor who does not know these waters.
6 boat trips in Bodø and Saltstraumen
1. Landegode and Landegode lighthouse
Landegode is the big mountainous island just north of town. It is the silhouette you see on midnight sun postcards. From the Bodø guest harbour (gjestehavn, the Norwegian word for guest harbour) it is approx. 10 nautical miles to Landegode lighthouse on the islet Eggløysa north of the island. The lighthouse was established in 1902, has a tower of almost 30 metres and is protected under the Cultural Heritage Act. Allow 2–4 hours for the round trip in a planing boat, or a little more if you circle the whole island. The station is a protected site, so respect the buildings and private areas if you go ashore.
Tip: the west side of Landegode faces the open Vestfjord and takes the swell straight from the sea. Use the east side when the wind is westerly.
2. Mjelle and Hovdsundet
Visit Bodø calls Mjelle the most romantic place in Northern Norway to watch the midnight sun, with a view of Landegode and the Lofoten mountains. The sand has a reddish tint from garnet. Nearby is Hovdsundet, a double beach where the sea comes in from both sides. Visit Bodø notes that many locals arrive there by boat. It is approx. 9 nautical miles from Bodø, and half a day with swimming and a picnic is realistic.
Tip: the beaches are shallow and exposed. Approach slowly, keep to 5 knots near swimmers, and pick a calm day if you want to lie at anchor.
3. Kjerringøy trading post
Kjerringøy is one of Norway's best-preserved 19th-century trading posts. It has 15 buildings with original interiors, a maritime collection in Heimbrygga and Stornaustet, and a café in Fjøsen. The trading post is run by the Nordland Museum and is open in the summer season. It is approx. 18 nautical miles north of Bodø past Landegode, so plan for a full day. Kjerringøy Boat Association has a guest pier just below Kjerringøy Bryggehotell, a stone's throw from the trading post.
Tip: check opening hours with the Nordland Museum before you go. Work out how much fuel the whole trip needs before you leave.
4. Givær
Givær is a small island group out in the Vestfjord, approx. 15 nautical miles west of Bodø. Visit Bodø lists it among the islands you can hop between from Bodø. The crossing is open water with no islands to shelter behind on the way. It is a trip for settled weather, a seaworthy boat and an experienced skipper. Bring everything you need and do not count on buying food or fuel out there.
Tip: Bliksvær nature reserve lies between Bodø and Givær. Landing is banned on several of its islets from 15 April to 31 July, see the rules below.
5. Saltstraumen, seen from the right side
Saltstraumen is approx. 8 nautical miles southeast of Bodø centre. Here the water between the Saltfjord and the Skjerstad Fjord is forced through a sound about 3 km long and 150 metres wide, at speeds of up to 20 knots. Whirlpools form that Kartverket, the Norwegian Mapping Authority, estimates at about 10 metres across and about 6 metres deep. The safe way to experience it is to stay well back on the Saltfjord side and watch, or to pass only during the slack-water window (see Rules and safety). The area is a marine protected area, and Visit Bodø advises against fishing directly in the current.
Tip: if you want to feel the current at full strength, a guided RIB tour from Bodø centre is a safer choice than doing it yourself.
6. The inner Saltfjord and Løding
Løding is on Tverlandet at the inner end of the Saltfjord, approx. 9 nautical miles east of Bodø. Starting here gives you a short run to Saltstraumen and to the calm parts of the fjord, and you avoid the exposed stretch along the Bodø peninsula. From Løding to the Saltfjord side of Saltstraumen is approx. 5 nautical miles. The Godøystraumen and Sundstraumen sounds also link the Saltfjord to the Skjerstad Fjord and also carry tidal current. Both are narrow and shallow.
Tip: do not take a shortcut through Godøystraumen or Sundstraumen without checking the chart and the tide first.
| Route | Distance (approx., one way) | Time | Highlight | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bodø – Landegode lighthouse | 10 nm | 2–4 h round trip | 1902 lighthouse, midnight sun | Most people |
| Bodø – Mjelle and Hovdsundet | 9 nm | Half day | Beaches, view of Lofoten | Families, swimming |
| Bodø – Kjerringøy | 18 nm | Full day | Trading post, guest pier | Experienced, settled weather |
| Bodø – Givær | 15 nm | Full day | Tiny island group in the Vestfjord | Experienced, seaworthy boat |
| Bodø – Saltstraumen | 8 nm | 2–4 h | World's strongest tidal current | Only with correct timing |
| Løding – Saltstraumen | 5 nm | 1–3 h | Inner Saltfjord | Short trips |
These distances are rough estimates from the map. Use a nautical chart or a chart app when you plan.
Rules and safety in Bodø and Saltstraumen
Saltstraumen: time your passage by the current, not the clock
- The current turns four times a day. It is strongest around new moon and full moon (spring tides), and an onshore wind makes it stronger still.
- The current does not turn at high or low water. Local practice puts the turn about 1 hour 40 minutes after high water at Bodø. The Norwegian Coastal Administration's forecast differs from this by about 20 minutes on average, and weather can shift it further.
- Local practice is to pass in the window from 20 minutes before to 20 minutes after the current turns. According to BarentsWatch, outside that window the whirlpools are impassable for small boats and vessels without plenty of reserve power.
- How to do it: find high and low water for Saltstraumen in Kartverket's tide service, Se havnivå. Then check the slack-water time in the Saltstraumen current forecast on BarentsWatch. The Norwegian Coastal Administration and BarentsWatch publish it, and it shows speed, direction and slack water up to two days ahead.
- Wait on the Saltfjord side, well clear of the sound. Go through when the forecast shows slack water, and be out well before the window closes. If you are late, wait for the next turn about six hours later.
- Never pass at peak current, not even in a fast boat. Kartverket calls it extremely risky and notes that many people have died here over the centuries.
- Ask the owner whether the boat may go through Saltstraumen at all. If in doubt, watch the current from land or from the Saltstraumen bridge.
Protected areas and fishing
- Saltstraumen marine protected area was established in 2013. Motorboats may pass and anchor, but you must not damage the protected values (regulation on Lovdata, Norwegian).
- Catching wolffish is prohibited in the protected area. Lost lures are a big problem here, so do not fish in the current itself.
- In Bliksvær nature reserve (Norwegian) landing, camping and pitching tents are banned on Kjervær, Tørrisøya, Gjesøya and other islets from 15 April to 31 July.
Traffic, speed and licence
- The limit is 5 knots within 50 metres of places where people are swimming.
- Bodø is a busy port with express boats and ferries. Keep out of their way and follow the speed signs in the harbour area.
- In Norway, anyone born on or after 1 January 1980 needs a boating licence (båtførerbevis) to skipper a boat over 8 metres or with more than 25 hp. Visitors should read our guide to the Norwegian boat licence to see which foreign licences are accepted.
Best time for a boat trip in Bodø
According to Visit Bodø, the midnight sun shines in Bodø and Salten from 4 June to 8 July. From May until well into August the nights are light enough for late trips. The midnight sun over Landegode seen from the water is worth an evening trip on its own. If you plan to pass Saltstraumen, avoid the days around new and full moon, when the tidal range is largest and the current strongest. The Vestfjord can get rough quickly, so check the forecast before heading out to Givær or Kjerringøy.
FAQ
Can you take a leisure boat through Saltstraumen?
Yes, but only in the window around slack water, roughly 20 minutes before to 20 minutes after the current turns. Check the Coastal Administration's current forecast on BarentsWatch on the day, and ask the owner if passing is allowed.
When is Saltstraumen at its strongest?
Halfway between the turns of the current, and especially around new and full moon, when it can reach 20 knots.
Where can you moor at Kjerringøy?
Kjerringøy Boat Association has a guest pier below Kjerringøy Bryggehotell, right next to the trading post.
Where can you moor in Bodø town centre?
The Port of Bodø has around 100 guest berths at four piers in the centre, with a service building by the small-boat harbour. You pay in the PowerPay app (Port of Bodø).
Is fishing allowed at Saltstraumen?
You can fish in the protected area, but wolffish are protected, and Visit Bodø asks people not to fish directly in the current.
Heading further north? See Lofoten by boat and Tromsø by boat in summer, and don't forget the day-trip packing list.
